Skin Care: Alpha Hydroxy?

It seems that whenever skin care is mentioned, alpha hydroxy acids are mentioned in the same breath. These acids can be found in numerous products including cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and masks for the facial area as well as body lotions, body washes, and exfoliating scrubs for all areas of the skin. But what are alpha hydroxy acids? What do they do and are they right for you?

As the skin ages, it can lose its youthful glow. Alpha hydroxy acids, when used in an effective concentration, exfoliate the epidermis by helping disintegrate the ‘glue’ that holds dry, dead skin cells to the surface of the skin. Removal of this external barrier enables deeper, easier penetration of other skin treatments as well.

Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) is an umbrella term for a variety of fruit acids, each derived from a different source. While all alpha hydroxy acids have a similar molecular structure, their differences lie in how each is used. A few of the most common alpha hydroxy acids used today are:

• Glycolic acid comes from sugar cane and can also be made synthetically. It is the most commonly used member of the AHA family for skin rejuvenation. Its small molecular size contributes to its effectiveness, allowing it to penetrate the skin more easily. Glycolic acid works in a number of ways; exfoliation, helps reduce surface skin oils, helps remove blackheads and other skin impurities, smoothes out fine wrinkle lines, moisturizes, helps bleach unwanted skin discoloration, and is thought to help stimulate collagen production within the dermis.
• Citric acid, or Vitamin C, acts as an antioxidant as well as helps stimulate collagen fiber production within the dermis.
• Lactic acid comes from sour milk and works both as an exfoliator as well as helping hold water within the skin. Lactic acid is often used by dermatologists to cut through thick, rough skin and may also be combined with other AHAs to help boost effectiveness.
• AHA combinations are often used. Many brands incorporate multiple alpha hydroxy acids in a one or two step system.

The results, possible side-effects, and healing time depend on the intensity and concentration of the alpha hydroxy treatment. Before choosing the appropriate alpha hydroxy treatment for you, know the basics.

According to the FDA, over-the-counter products can contain up to 10% alpha hydroxy acid. At that concentration, results will not be immediately apparent. For more notable results, a salon ‘mini-peel’ can reduce the look of fine lines, even skin tone, and reduce spotting. These are typically administered every eight to ten weeks and result in mild irritation that usually clears up within 48 hours. A more intense peel can be done by your dermatologist who can remove scarring and deep wrinkling. These more intense treatments can leave skin irritated for up to a month and are not recommended more than once a year.

At the same time that alpha hydroxy acids rid the skin of damaged cells, they also make the skin vulnerable to the harmful effects of the sun. The damage can be avoided, however, by wearing an effective sunscreen at all times, both during and after alpha hydroxy treatments.

If you feel that your skin is looking lifeless, dull or uneven, using a product containing alpha hydroxy acid may benefit you. Younger looking skin can be right around the corner in your drug or department store aisle…just don’t forget the sunscreen!